Thursday, October 2, 2008

a little of this, a little of that

Venice was really beautiful...as beautiful as all of the pictures show it to be. Some places you go and you see very pretty things, but overall the place isnt spectacular. But in Venice, everywhere you turn you see beauty - the architecture, the people, the water even (surprise...its not completely a dump).

I spent Rosh HaShana in the old Jewish Ghetto with one of the oldest Jewish communities in the world. For all of you Karissa fans out there, Rosh HaShana is the Jewish new year and a major high holy day for Jews. Woohoo 5769! Services were long, but afterwards we were treated to a free dinner put on by the local Kosher restaurant. It was delicious and FREE. Always a good thing to a backpacker. I met some nice people and had a great experience.

Our host in Venice was actually about an hour train ride outside of Venice in a town called Padua (or padova). He is a professional chef and a very nice guy. He also loves to windsurf, which is really cool. The first night we arrived at his place he had prepared this HUGE feast because a friend of his was bringing over 25 Brazilians! They were on a trip through Italy for free because they all had Italian decent (like a birthright but for Italians). They were a lot of fun and the food was so so so so good. We went salsa dancing after the party and I cant even describe how cool that was. Older nebbishy (dorky) looking men who look like that dirty uncle no one really likes and doesnt know the meaning of a regular shower would step onto the dance floor and suddenly become sauve gentlemen. It was incredible. The way these people moved is something I truly believe is innate and cannot be taught. The steps can be learned but to actually dance the dance is something you must be born doing. Good times in Venice.

After waking up at 4:30a to catch a bus from Padua (where we were staying near venice) to the venice airport and then taking an overpriced taxi to pick up the busabout bus and sitting on the busabout bus allll day long and doing a really bad job of finding our servas host here, we finally arrived in Roma. There is so much to see Ill never see it all. The saying "a lifetime isnt enough" when referring to Rome is so true. So Karissa and I, both feeling under the weather (snotty, sore throats, bed bug bites everywhere), decided we had to see what we could and woke up to start another adventure. We accomplished a lot I must say - The Colosseum, The Pantheon, Some other ruins (theyre everywhere), Piazza Navona, the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish steps...and a new blog post! whew.

The Colosseum - amazing. Seriously amazing. The wait in line is completely worth it. It is so magnificent to think that actual Romans "romed" (haha i crack myself up) through the same spaces as we did. Im a bit embrarrassed to say but I didnt even know I was in the Pantheon when I was there. Its actually called the Basilica de something somethign and I got slightly confused. It doesnt look anything like I thought it would. I dont know what I was thinking, but not that. Anwyay, it is really pretty and there is an opening at the top so if it rains the rain actually comes straight through the to beautifully tiled floor and if it is sunny (like today) it spills into the building and lights it up. Pretty cool. Im glad its not raining because it turns out Im a bit of a klutz and Im pretty sure Id have fallen over a million times today had the stones paving the ground been even the slightest bit damp.

Moving on...ruins were cool, but I was fortunate enough to see several roman ruins when I was in Israel and once youve seen one Roman bath youve seen them all so I was ready to move on to other sites like the Trevi fountain which is sooo gorgeous. I cant wait to see it at night all lit up.

Roma has been great so far and impressive. I love the way the ruins and ancient architecture are incorporated within the modern city of Roma. And its TRUE what they say about Italian men...they appreciate beauty - with all five senses. Ciao bella! Its something we hear a lot just walking down the street and what woman doesnt like to hear that on a regular basis?

Our new host is also a sweetheart. We feasted on fresh cheeses last night - always a favorite for Karissa and me. She works with handicapped children in school - an honorable job - and she is into homeopathy - and she smokes. haha...very funny and very sweet woman. her husband, whom we havent met yet, is a photographer, which is pretty cool.

Still loving Italy and drinking lots of orange juice in an attempt to get better soon.
Enjoy the pics.

Monday, September 29, 2008

new pictures

check out the new pics
post to come later
but i love italy

Friday, September 26, 2008

Bella Italia

Oktoberfest was a BLAST!!! We went to a beer tent at 11am and left at 11pm. I completely lost track of how many beers I drank or pretzels I ate, but Ill tell you it was a lot. I have some really funny videos that I wish I could show you but youll have to wait until I make a video when I get back to America. These pictures will have to suffice. People in Munich are really serious about their beer. And their Liederhosen. We sang drinking songs, slurred classic American hits, and clanked many a mug as big as your torso - seriously. It was too fun to put into words, but Oktoberfest is definitely an experience not to be missed. It also happens to be a fair all lit up at night including rides and games. I went on the ferris wheel and enjoyed beautiful views from the top of Munich in the evening.

Brief sauna update...wonderful! Very relaxing and not akward at all because it was just Karissa, our host, and me. Perfect.

I love that Im meeting so many travelers here. A lot of them are on their second or third year of traveling. They started with a few months and couldnt stop. Id like to join them. If only money were no object...

Ive compiled a small list of things I love about Europe. I left it in my room, but Ill try to remember some of it:

-everyone smokes and no one judges...it doesnt seem weird or disgusting here. So European
-you can buy just one cup of coffee and sit in a coffee shop all day long without being bothered. Prime people watching time and a great relaxation.
-city centers! It is so nice to know that there is a big square where everything happens and then work your way out from there. It makes sightseeing and museum hopping much easier and is fun to wander through.
-in an hour you can be immersed in a completely different country, landscape, and language than you were an hour before whereas in the US it takes hours upon hours of travel to see a completely new place.
-so much to do, so much to see. The history is so rich here you are never bored and the architecture is always something gorgeous to look at if you just feel like taking a walk.
-Europeans are cultured. They know so many languages and understand what being Kosher is without judgement. In America, I just tell people Im vegetarian because they have no clue, but here if you say you are Kosher they get it and accommodate accordingly. Its so nice to be understood.
-art appreciation. In America, when budgets are low, arts are the first thing to go. But here, they are a priority.

o there were sooo many more but I cant remember them all now. More to come later.

I went to Dachau yesterday and was moved by being in the area, but it was a bit too museumy for me. I wanted to just be in the place and it doesnt feel like youre really there when you have two maps and an audioguide with you. But it is still heavy and Im not prepared to elaborate on the entire experience.

Today we took the bus from Munich to Venice, Italy!!! I love it already. so warm, so beautiful. The bus ride was breathtaking with the mountains and the mist and just everything about southern Europe is great. I know I havent seen that much of it, but I know I love it already. We are staying at a hostel tonight and tomorrow because hosts in Venice are hard to come by and we havent actually ventured into the city but will tomorrow. Im excited to celebrate my Rosh HaShana (Jewish new year) in one of the oldest Jewish communities in the world. Im going to find this great old synogogue tomorrow and hopefully theyll let me attend services without needing a ticket or anything.

I was going to go to Greece but I decided I have been looking too forward to seeing it to only give it a few days so Im going to save that for another trip. If Im in Israel next year I wont be too far from it anyhow.

Not much to report...beautiful views and great beer...thats about it. But its a lot. enjoy the pics. Happy Birthday papa mcdermott

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Munching in Munchen

cheesy title, I know. So in case you didnt guess Im in Munich (munchen in German). Its Oktoberfest!! woohooo

I wrote a haiku while celebrating the festivities and although its elementary, at best, I think it really portrays some truths about life and love and....beer

beer beer beer beer beer
beer liederhosen beer beer
beer drunk blogging beer

appropriate considering the occasion...

Anywho, back to real life. Its Karissas birthday!! yay!! and we plan on celebrating with...beer (maybe more haikus to come later)

We just spent a wonderful and relaxing few days an hour outside of Salzburg in a little, country village called Maria Schmolln. Very beautiful and relaxing - we sat by the fire and read and crossworded and ate tons of organic, biodynamic food. The couple we stayed with is really into biodynamic food, which i dont fully understand but i know it has something to do with no chemicals whatsoever not only not on the vegetables but not even anywhere in the soil so everything is really pure. When they see this post they can correct me where I am wrong and elaborate.

Because of Oktoberfest, the busabout bus to Munich was full and we couldnt get a booking on it so we had to take the train there. Gotta love public transportation. Our host here is this wonderful 60-70ish year old woman who is a fabulous painter and showed us a ton of her artwork last night. We liked one so much she put it out in the living room by our bed so we could look at it. We are cordially invited to go to a naked, co-ed sauna/ice bath/garden (yes all naked and all coed and all mostly over 66 years old) with her this afternoon and despite my many discomforts with that situation I may actually attend. Karissa is all for it...surprise. When in...Munich.

no pictures today...maybe after the sauna

Friday, September 19, 2008

Greetings from your old friend the Apricot Tree

Ahoy there. Karissa and I are currently in sunny Salzburg, Austria. Austria has turned out to be such an amazing country. I had no idea I would enjoy it this much, but I really like it here. It also turns out that I have family from both Vienna and Salzburg...cool! Going vineyarding was relaxing and just what Karissa and I needed. It was a rainy, cold day but we trekked the 3.5 km to the vineyard and had a pleasant afternoon. The title of this blog is from the cheesy movie they made us watch as part of our tour. The old apricot tree, with a bad old man british accent, took us on a journey through the vineyard and the wine-making process. Exciting - I know. But we drank a ton of samples and brought one back to our host in Krems, who by the way went to Nicaragua and Africa and decided something needed to be done for the poor people there so she started an organization that has these shops called Welt Larden, which translates into World Shop, that sells art at no profit to themselves from around the world. How cool is that? She casually mentioned this to us over a home-made curry dinner and followed with, "We all try to change the world." How true.

We returned to our intriguing hosts in Vienna and were priveledged to spend two more nights with them. Renate, the trekking matriarch of the family, told us she was going to Hungary one morning for a massage and facial and asked if we wanted to ride along for the experience and of course we said yes. So we go to visit this cute, little town in Hungary called Sopron. We walked around (in the coooold) for a bit and enjoyed the view. The bus doesnt go to Hungary so that was really a special trip. Vienna is a wonderful city I just didnt get enough time in and really want to return to. Someday I will...

Our last night in Vienna was kind of crazy...we ended up at a club called Flex where you can just dance as crazy as you want and dress and weird as you like and no one cares (mostly because theyre all on something or really drunk or probably both). It was great...I have bad blisters from that night. So this morning we got on the bus to Salzburg and even though my body was saying SLEEP, all I could do was stare out the window. Driving from Vienna to Salzburg was one of the prettiest (straight 3 hours of magnificence) landscapes weve had on this trip so far. I really love Austria...a lot.

Salzburg is amazing. There was some pre oktoberfest austrian style state fair thingy happening today and everyone was dressed up in their liederhosen and dirndles and I think I saw some kilts and definitely lots of beer and fried food and it was amazing. All of this with the mountains as the backdrop - just perfect.

Enjoy the pics

Monday, September 15, 2008

Old pictures, new city

So here are some belated pictures. We finally found a place to use our SD cards yay! After another long bus ride and passing through Cesky Krumlov, we arrived in Vienna. Our host made us a wonderful Asian stir fry that was healthy and delicious. We hung out with his children, Francisca (16) and Kristophe (19) and his girlfriend. It was fun to talk with Viennese youth. Kristophe and his girlfriend traveled with Servas last summer through Boston and Chicago so they understood our circumstances. The next morning we left for another host in Vienna whose home I can only begin to describe!

You have to be here to really get the feeling of this house but Ill start by saying it was built by our hosts (Frank) father and finished by Frank himself - using his own two hands. It is BEAUTIFUL and UNIQUE and just amazing. Forget museums, this entire house is a work of art. From the red, iron fence that surrounds the home to the wooden floors, to every piece of art in and out of the house to even the stove that heats the entire house, this entire place is made by hand with love. And the people who inhabit it are just as interesting as the house itself. Besides being a crafty man, Frank teaches biotechnology at the local university. Renate, his wife, treks hundereds of kilometers (entirely on foot - seriously) into the mountains or into forests with a group of people who just like to get up and go whenever they so choose. She told us a beautiful story about seeing a poignant piece of art in a little monastery in the middle of the forest only accesible on foot she saw on her most recent trek. Their youngest daughter makes shoes and has contributed to the beautiful stained glass throughout the house, among other things. One of their daughters is a sculptor who made pieces for a local park besides the ones that line the walls of their home. These are the only two children I met, but I have a feeling their entire family is talented in similar ways.

Karissa and I agree that even though these words about our hosts give you a taste of who they are and how we feel about them, it is nearly impossible to really convey the energy you feel while being in their presence. Our hosts have truly made our trip amazing and to be able to put into words the euphoria of their company would never work...but we try.

Besides the amazing people, Vienna has been great. Even though the weather is pretty sucky (cold and rainy), we like what weve seen so far. We went to a modern art museum yesterday and I felt so rushed (because everything in Europe closes so early! everything is closed by 6pm..no joke) to see all of the pieces because each one demanded several minutes of my time and there were 8 levels! I plan on returning.

Today we ventured out a little bit to see some wineries and are staying in a charming town called Krems with another wonderful host. We will return to our friends in Vienna tomorrow. More to come and enjoy the pics.

I almost forgot! After hearing a cellist on the street yesterday we were inspired to go to the Vienna Orchestra. Another experience I can hardly put into words, but it was the first time where I honeslty felt that I have really felt another culture. The opening number gave me chillbumps. It was incredible. The guitarist was playing two parts just by himself. I think he is really famous or something because people kept clapping for encores and he kept coming out and playing more. So beautiful...so moving...

Thursday, September 11, 2008

whatever you do: Paddleboat in Prague

So I don't think I have enough time or money (because all internet time is money) to recount what's been happening since I last posted, but I'll do my best to give you the highlights. As I said, I loved Bernlin. The personal style of each citizen of Berlin is something beautiful to see and definitely not a sight accessible where I'm from. One of our last nights in Berline was one of the best. We ended up going to Friday night Shabbat services at the Neue Synagogue, which is a famous museum/synagogue in Berlin and met there two distinctly different but amazing characters. One: Jeremy, a gay man originally from somewhere in the US whose niece actually goes to IU but who sold everything he had in America to move to Berlin and hasn't looked back since, and Pat. Okay, so its name is Hilly but if you've ever seen the movie "It's Pat" that is who we met. Pat! Google it...its hilarious and I seriously have not a clue to this person's gender. But he/she was very nice and had just moved to Berlin to start a study abroad program. After services we enjoyed another delicious meal with our hosts and then went out to a club called the BANG BANG CLUB. Every person in there was so into themselves I couldn't hold my laughter in. I love these little bars in Berlin that each have their own 'flavor.' The club was okay, but the great thing was on the way to the club we met two German girls while they were trying to get their beer open. You are allowed to just carry a beer onto the S-bahn at any point in the day...its great. So they were trying to open their second one because they didn't bring an opener so then I tried to help out by hitting it against things only to finally have it opened by a bum with his lighter. They were such fun girls and we ended up spending the rest of the evening with them and it turns out they are moving to London and we are going to meet up with them when we get there.

From Berlin we went on to Prauge and even though we had a rough start there, its great. Today we went paddleboating on the river and it was fantasic. Absolute perfection...a beer, a paddleboat, the sun, and some crappy renditions of classic American songs playing in the background. Prague castle was an adventure to say the least. The place is HUGE and although beautiful, it was an exhausting day. We went the first afternoon we were in Prague and it turned in to a joke between Karissa and I during our stay in Prague that the damn Prague castle is keeping us in and ruining our day with its intricate mazes and stairs that lead nowhere. It really is a nice place, but a bit much. Great view from the top though.

Last night we went to a local pub right by where our Servas host lives. We didn't feel like bothering with taking buses and trams into the city so we stayed close by and ended up having a BLAST. It started with two beers and a cigar and ended up with more alcohol and beers than I can count, all the locals wanting to give us the 'czech speciality drink' (which consists of crap and cinnamon I believe), and meeting a gay techno DJ who throws these big, illegal techno parties that he invited us to. We are unfortunately going to be in Vienna at the time of his next one, but just spending the night talking and drinking and laughing with him was enough. We really had a great time.

By the way, as if I need to mention it, we had another lovely host. She is actually quite interesting. Her name is Klara and she is neutral as far as I could tell on the Middle East issue, but speaks both Hebrew and Arabic and has visited both Israel and Palestine and loves both. I wish I could have talked to her more about the topic, but we didn't spend a lot of time on Middle Eastern politics...probably a good thing. But one day we'll meet again in Israel and chat about it.

I would update with pictures but I can't upload here and my time is about to run out.

I almost forgot: the FOOD...i eat mostly bread, cheese, cheese, bread, and more cheese....with bread. its cheep and delicious....i don't need more. (Until pasta in Italy...can't wait)

AND Klara told me that its Gickwee...not Dickwee...oh well.